Rohan Chowdhury, Manchester
Manchester — a city that reverberates with the spirit of football and Manchester United, a club so iconic that even those far removed from the sport are likely to know its name. The area of Trafford, in Greater Manchester, flaunts two legendary stadiums: Old Trafford Cricket Ground, home to Lancashire County Cricket Club, and Old Trafford football Stadium, the fortress of United.
Yet, it’s not just the landmarks that speak of legacy. Walk through the streets and you’re instantly transported into the Red Devils’ den. Houses, shops, pubs — everything is cloaked in the United theme. The pride is palpable, the identity unmistakable.
Just five minutes on foot from the Hilton Hotel Gate of the cricket ground takes you to the epicenter of this football fervour — Old Trafford, the ‘Theatre of Dreams’. But even before reaching the stadium, the neighbourhood hums with a sense of history and devotion.
One standout spot is The Trafford, a United-themed pub barely a stone’s throw from the stadium. It’s more than just a watering hole; it’s a shrine. The pub’s exterior bursts with vibrant graffiti of club legends — Bobby Charlton and George Best gaze from one side, Denis Law and Eric Cantona from the other. The combination of red jerseys against a stark black background is striking, almost cinematic.
A curious sight, though, are the cracked glass windows, each showing a central point of impact. It seems like the aftermath of stones hurled in frustration, perhaps during one of United’s tougher times. An angry tribute to the passion that runs deep.
Though not always open, The Trafford will swing its doors wide on July 23, just in time for the ffourth Test of the England vs India series, offering a cricket-themed menu — a rare crossover in this football-centric haven.
Across the street are two fast food joints — Manchester United Food Take-Away and United Café. From coffee to classic fish ’n chips, the fare is simple but beloved, available mostly on match or event days.
Closer still to the stadium is a house draped in a massive poster — commemorating the 50th anniversary of United’s 1968 European Cup triumph over Benfica. It also pays solemn tribute to the Busby Babes and the tragic 1958 Munich air disaster, weaving grief and glory into the same emotional thread.
Perhaps the most stirring landmark of all is a towering mural of Mary Earps, the Lionesses’ and United’s stalwart goalkeeper. She, however, now is in Paris Saint-Germain. Commissioned by fans in 2023, it stands not only as a celebration of her excellence but also as a quiet protest. During the 2023 FIFA Women’s World Cup, Nike — the kit sponsor for 13 of the 32 participating nations — refused to sell women’s goalkeeper jerseys to the public. This mural emerged as a symbol of defiance and pride, echoing the voice of fans worldwide.
Beneath the mural, however, lies another layer of unrest — a stark, spray-painted message: “Glazers Out”. This graffiti, far from random vandalism, reflects a deeper, long-standing protest against United’s ownership.
From this mural, just a few steps ahead lie the sacred grounds of Old Trafford itself — a chapter we’ll open another day.
But for now, this short walk through Trafford is enough to understand that United are more than a football club — it’s a culture, a community, and a legacy written not just in goals and trophies, but in walls, windows, and hearts.
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